One of New York’s oldest operating French restaurants has reopened on the Upper East Side
Opened in 1937, Le Veau d’Or (129 East 60th Street) was a longtime favorite of Upper East Siders. Owned by just three families in its 87-year history, the French bistro drew clientele of all kinds. Orson Welles had a favorite window banquette, and Jacqueline Onassis, Grace Kelly and James Beard had all at one point walked through its doors.
It was a space that also attracted chefs Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr. Initially meeting in the kitchens of Daniel, the duo have gone on to carve out their own corner of French restaurants in the city, first with Frenchette in 2018, Le Rock at Rockefeller in 2022 and most recently Frenchette Bakery at the Whitney in 2023. But still, they always kept an eye on the historic property, so much so that they would check in with Cathy Treboux over the years, the daughter of the third owner, Robert, to see if she would consider selling the space.
“It’s so historic that we always thought the city should have come in here and preserved it,” says Hanson in a press release.
Treboux eventually agreed, and the duo purchased it in 2019. As of July 16, the lights are finally back on at New York’s oldest operating French restaurant.
When approaching the property, the duo were cleared to enhance the current foundation, not to change it. Wood-paneled walls have been polished, mirrors shined. The red and white checkered tablecloths remain. The four-seater bar offers the original apéritif as well as the cocktail stirred with Dubonnet, kirsch and lemon juice. The upstairs, once Cathy Treboux’s office, will be home to a 20-seat private dining space and bar. And while the number of paintings on the walls have been edited down, the signature artwork of the sleeping calf still hangs inside.
“We want the regulars to come back,” Nasr told Eater. “We do not want to put our own fingerprints on it.”
This attention to preservation follows suit with the food, as the menu leans on the dishes from yesteryear with modern refinishes. Remaining a prix fixe menu just like before, the menu includes 10 appetizers, 10 entrées and five desserts to choose from, priced at $125 per person. Appetizers include pâté en croûte and frog legs. Entrées range from the duck margret in a cherry sauce to the fricassé poulet avec vin jaune (chicken fricassé with morels and white wine). Cheese is always offered before dessert. And, speaking of, dessert from pastry chef Michelle Palazzo features gratin de chocolat and seasonal ice cream scoops. While the original had no wine list—the question was only red or white—James Beard-nominated wine director Jorge Riera has laid out a list of over 100 wines that highlight France plus a seasonal selection of Champagnes.
Le Veau d’Or is currently open for dinner, Tuesday through Saturday. This bistro is sure to be booked and busy these next few months, so try snagging your reservation on Resy.
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