This Momofuku alum has opened her own restaurant in Hudson Square
Hudson Square is often outshined by Soho, Tribeca and the West Village. Once the printing district of the city, the former industrial site will soon undergo its own revitalization as Google and Disney are set to make their headquarters there. But a recent restaurant opening has given us plenty of reasons to visit the area now. Namely, the arrival of Kiko (307 Spring Street).
Translating to “hope” in Japanese, Kiko comes from a husband-and-wife team, who are two powerhouses in their own right. Sommelier Lina Goujjane has hospitality in her blood. Her family were long-time owners of the beloved West Village restaurant, One if by Land, Two if by Sea, consistently named as one of the most romantic spots in the country. Beginning her career working at the restaurant at the age of 14, Goujjane has staked her claim in the industry, working as a sommelier at some of the city's top spots, including Sushi Noz and Momofuku Group.
The second half of Kiko is chef Alex Chang. Taking lessons from around the world, chef Chang's resume includes stages at Michelin-starred Pujol and Quintonil in Mexico City to working at New York's Il Buco Alimentari. Together, the duo started Kiko as a pop-up in 2018, first in L.A. and then out of Alta and Parcelle. Now finding a home in Hudson Square, Kiko will continue to tell the story of Chang’s global influences rooted in his Asian heritage.
Diving into the menu, starters need to include the Goop-approved Dungeness Crab. Fresh crab meat is tossed in a spicy sauce made of its own fat, chilies and mayonnaise before being deposited back in the head of the animal. It’s served with sushi rice and nori so you can make your own hand rolls at your table. Another favorite is one of the OG's of the pop-up days: the Thrice Fried Chicken Wings. The incredibly crunchy wings are made aromatic with a dusting of dried shavings of makrut lime leaf and sansho.
Larger entrees include a menu of steak and chops, from dry-aged strip loin with brown butter tare to the Berkshire Pork Secreto which is marinated in coconut and condensed milk. Noodles and Rice can also function as a main or a side, The Maine Lobster Crispy Rice being one of them. Here, crispy rice is surrounded by a moat of soul-warming curry spiced with Thai chili.
Formerly of SAGA and Overstory, Chris Lemperle takes on the bar here, punching up classics ‘tails with flavors found across Asia. The purple-hued Ume Highball features umeshu, shiso and green tea while the refreshing Tropika balances its smoky mezcal base with pineapple, celery and yuzu. Naturally, Goujjane has taken over the wine list, a tight list of finds curated across Europe including Hungary, Spain and Italy.
So come visit Kiko, and claim this neighborhood spot for yourself.
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